Cable Replacement
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
Cable Replacement
I am going to be replacing the forward upper trim tab cable (0510105-7)on a 53 B model. From a quick look it was not clear how to separate the old cable, or attach the new, one from the chain around the trim wheel.
Also will be replacing the left wing flap return upper (0510105-60). Again not clear on how to best get at the connection point at the bell crank in the wing.
Any experience out there to draw on??
Also will be replacing the left wing flap return upper (0510105-60). Again not clear on how to best get at the connection point at the bell crank in the wing.
Any experience out there to draw on??
I've done both of what you are attempting to do.
If you have a parts manual you will see the exploding view of the bell cranks involved. Follow the picture "directions". It is not an easy task.
On the trim tap- set solid the movable parts and then begin dissassembly.
Once you have it out replace it as it was exactly.
It is a slow tedious task. I think it would be easier for you to replace all associated cable not just a portion. If you go to the trouble to remove the cable it is not that expensive to replace both upper and lower and then you will not have to do it again (most likely).
Best to you in your project
Dave
If you have a parts manual you will see the exploding view of the bell cranks involved. Follow the picture "directions". It is not an easy task.
On the trim tap- set solid the movable parts and then begin dissassembly.
Once you have it out replace it as it was exactly.
It is a slow tedious task. I think it would be easier for you to replace all associated cable not just a portion. If you go to the trouble to remove the cable it is not that expensive to replace both upper and lower and then you will not have to do it again (most likely).
Best to you in your project
Dave
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- Posts: 217
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 1:56 pm
trim cable
Grind the pin from the last link of the chain off, then you use a master link, just like on a bicycle chain. The chain attaches to the cable with the last pin that goes through the chain also goes through an attach ball with a hole drilled through it to recieve the chain. The master link is then put through the last link and the hole in the attach ball, (for a lack of the proper name). If this doesn,t make sense E-mail me personally, and I will explain it better. Jon
thanks for the advise
I have both the flap and trim old cables out. It was slow. As luck would have it I ordered the wrong cable for the trim, "upper" instead of "lower", so I will follow your advise and at least replace both the forward cables on the trim. I managed to use a chain break to remove the old pin in the "ball" connection to the chain. My hanger neighbor who is an experienced Thorp builder suggested securing the new cable ball with a stainless rivet. Seems as simple as the master link option. My A&P recommended the use of a cleavis pin but I don't think this is the best option.
On the flap cable ..... took off the flap to get to the bell crank through the linkage opening, but it did not work so well. I ended up removing the bell crank from the wing. I had to pull all the pulley's as the end of the cable would not pass through and this took some time for sure. I pulled a string along with both cables as I removed them. A word to the wise, the drawing in the parts manual is a little misleading. If you have an early model B, like mine, the flap return cable is a single piece and if you look close at the drawing you will see this option. But I didn't so I ordered half of the two cable option. I checked with McFarlane and their engineering said that the two piece arrangement will work as a replacement. In fact the one piece cable was shown as obsolete in their Cessna books. So with the new cables and a new turnbuckle arriving overnight I will spend Christmas day in the hanger working on my 170. LIFE COULD NOT BE BETTER
Thanks again. So far so good.
On the flap cable ..... took off the flap to get to the bell crank through the linkage opening, but it did not work so well. I ended up removing the bell crank from the wing. I had to pull all the pulley's as the end of the cable would not pass through and this took some time for sure. I pulled a string along with both cables as I removed them. A word to the wise, the drawing in the parts manual is a little misleading. If you have an early model B, like mine, the flap return cable is a single piece and if you look close at the drawing you will see this option. But I didn't so I ordered half of the two cable option. I checked with McFarlane and their engineering said that the two piece arrangement will work as a replacement. In fact the one piece cable was shown as obsolete in their Cessna books. So with the new cables and a new turnbuckle arriving overnight I will spend Christmas day in the hanger working on my 170. LIFE COULD NOT BE BETTER
Thanks again. So far so good.
Cable reference
I did not run across any "data' table but the folks at Mcfarlane Aviation were very helpful. They had some sort of reference table and worked through all the details with me on the phone once they became aware that there was some different options depending on what serial number you have. They also had all the drawing from the the 170 parts manual so it was easy to cross reference by the part numbers.
They also offered to take back the miss - orders with no restock fee.
P.S. all the cables are in and now I am waiting for the A&P to set the tension and safety wire the turn buckles.
I checked the maintenance manual and did not find any data on the proper tension. Anybody have this info????
They also offered to take back the miss - orders with no restock fee.
P.S. all the cables are in and now I am waiting for the A&P to set the tension and safety wire the turn buckles.
I checked the maintenance manual and did not find any data on the proper tension. Anybody have this info????
Mr. Frainiea ,
Look in the owners manual (my manual is for a 1953 170B) starting on page 48 and going through page 54. These pages cover pretty well rigging and cable tensions for the 170, however they strangly do not mention a cable tension for the rudder cable. Does anyone have the proper cable tension for the rudder?
John
Look in the owners manual (my manual is for a 1953 170B) starting on page 48 and going through page 54. These pages cover pretty well rigging and cable tensions for the 170, however they strangly do not mention a cable tension for the rudder cable. Does anyone have the proper cable tension for the rudder?
John
Frainiea, the elev. trim cable tension spec. is 30 lbs. Flap cable tensions are 20-40 lbs. (i.e. also 30 lbs +/- 10 lbs.)
John, there is no cable tension spec. for the rudder cables because they are only held in tension by the rudder-return springs, forward of the rudder pedals. In other words, they are not interconnected and the only tension is that provided by the springs.
John, there is no cable tension spec. for the rudder cables because they are only held in tension by the rudder-return springs, forward of the rudder pedals. In other words, they are not interconnected and the only tension is that provided by the springs.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.