1948 fuel selector valve

[Kolb Driver]

Gentlemen,

Getting annual performed on 6303D and got gigged for a leaking fuel selector valve. Got valve out and disassembled. Leak is around valve shaft which uses a packing assembly on my Valve. I beleive it to be the orginal Imperial - Eastman valve. At any rate, local Cessna dealer telles me the valve has been redesigned at least twice, replacement is built to order, and cannot get a price until ordering. Howevver, I can get a rebuild kit for an older design valve for $3000.00. Cannot even get a picture to see what it looks like.
All I need is a packing ring for this critter but its not to be had (thus far).Any of you go through this issue? What was your solution?

Larry Tasker

[David Sbur]

Some old discussion on the 120-140 website regarding the Imperial valves is that o-rings are used now, either 1 or 2 depending on the spring tension on the selector shaft. MS29513-011 or 012 I think. I have a notation about MS28777 something about the washer on the cap (bonnet). One member tried a fuel injector o-ring from a NAPA kit, Napa # 2-12085 and said the rings in the kit worked fine as regular packing.

The genuine Cessna replacement valve for our birds were something like apx. $5000, yeah right...

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Larry, David reminds us that the 140 and '48 170 have a lot in common and that their site might be an excellent source of info besides other '48 owners at our site.

[DWood]

Larry:
S/N 18574 and later is mounted on the firewall. Before that is mounted below the floor. The valve on the earlier 48 shows a replaceable packing in the exploded view.
I have a later 48 and the valve is mounted on the wall. I had mine apart this weekend for lubrication (Fuel Lube from Spruce). Looking mine over, the cap that unscrews from the valve body appears to include a bushing that the shaft rotates in and I think there is an Oring (packing) on top of the bushing. If the bushing is good, I might be tempted to try to replace the Oring but I have not done this and you need to review it with your A&P. Did he say exactly where it is leaking?
Dan

[DWood]

Larry:
Rereading your post, I see you have the packing out. You should be able to match up an ORing. IF YOUR A&P APPROVES.
Dan

[n3833v]

My packing was a felt type packing. almost like a fuel injection dirt packing at the pump outlets to keep the well clear of buildup dirt. Check to see how the brass cone fits and possibly lap to fit.
John

[CBogle]

You have probably solved your re-build issue with the 1948 fuel selector valve, but, there is also a thread in the Trade-Mart portion of this web site where a gentleman is selling original 1948 fuel selectors for $250. I've purchased both the fuel selector valve and the origial gasgolator in the box from him "just in case" as these parts are getting harder to find and/or rebuild.

Curt
N4288V
1948

[Fearless Tower]

It seems I'm going through the fuel selector valve issue now myself. I have the same problem as the original poster - bad packing gland.

Last I checked, there was still a replacement valve available, but my A&P is recommending going with the newer style O-ring valve that has been approved for the 120/140s so that I don't have to deal with this problem again.

The original valve is roughly $300.

The 140 valve is about $500 and will need a field approval to install in the 170.

Any recommendations?

[GAHorn]

It seems I'm going through the fuel selector valve issue now myself. I have the same problem as the original poster - bad packing gland.

Last I checked, there was still a replacement valve available, but my A&P is recommending going with the newer style O-ring valve that has been approved for the 120/140s so that I don't have to deal with this problem again.

The original valve is roughly $300.

The 140 valve is about $500 and will need a field approval to install in the 170.

Any recommendations?

I think there's some misinformation being handed out. The new 140 valvle is about TEN times that price. (And it's installation is covered by a Cessna Service Kit.) Fix your old valve.

[Fearless Tower]

Fix your old valve.

Do you mean replace it with the original? Doesn't seem like there are correct packing glands available to fix the existing one.

The $500 figure came from my A&P - I believe he found a suitable replacement, but not sure if it is the same part - I'll ask him for the part info.

[GAHorn]

I recommend finding the suitably-sized Viton O-ring and repairing your valve with it, if possible.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Remember the '48 valve is not the same as the A and B models which had two different types of valves themselves. Cessna a year or two ago developed a replacement for the later A/B fuel valve and I'd guess it also covers the early model A/B valve. This Cessna replacement is about $3000 best I remember.

The '48 valve I believe is more similar to the 140 and in fact may be the same. I believe I've heard of a recent replacement for the 140 valve which is not the Cessna valve. I'm thinking Univair has it approved but could off base here.

As for your valve. Fix it. They are pretty simple and very repairable but you probably won't be able to buy the packings by part number. Several members here have replaced packings with suitable substitutes. I'm sure someone will chime in.

[blueldr]

Put one or two "O" rings on the shaft and re assemble it for a check . I've never seen one that couldn't be dried up with a little effort.

[Fearless Tower]

The '48 valve I believe is more similar to the 140 and in fact may be the same. I believe I've heard of a recent replacement for the 140 valve which is not the Cessna valve. I'm thinking Univair has it approved but could off base here.

The Univair 140 valve is sold as a kit : U0411716-000 http://univairparts.com/shopping/produc ... s_id=30107

I believe this is the valve that my A&P was referring to - it is $373 if I order it....closer to $500 if my guy orders it.

The O-ring idea sounds great, but what basis do I have to replace the original packing gland with an O-ring(s)? Owner produced part? Although I can't really say that I had anything to do with its development and the IA would have to buy off on it. What am I missing?

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Your not missing anything.

You have to think simple. If it quacks like a duck, it might be a duck. You need a packing material that is impervious to gas and will not fall apart, allow the stem to turn and of course sell the stem from a leak. You might find this in the form of an o-ring, you might find it in the form of a graphite seal. You may find this packing at NAPA or other auto store for a car or truck or at a Gas Pump supply house, Grainger or your local ACE Hardware.

Yes your A&P will have to agree that it is in fact a duck when you find it.