gahorn wrote:Gee, I sure hope the piston rings know all this. I'd hate for them to rotate about the piston. Sure hope they get stuck in position early!
Yes George, the rings must know;
In FAR Part 121.2813 Article 12, Section G.1A, Subsection F, Paragraph 3, Sentence 13 it states: The rings shall be aware of their position about the piston and any failure to notify the nearest FSDO with any deviations shall result in that part being made unairworthy and the pilot guilty of carelessness and recklessness.
Now Miles you realize this may make your plane inelgible for convention judging in certain categories because the pistons are not oriented in the "orginal" position
cleaning the muffler shrouds - if you have access, soak the shrouds in cold carb cleaner (TYME or equivalent) overnite, then some scrubbing with some scotch brite
otherwise it will take much more scrubbing, I do it in a parts cleaner with solvent
you may not get all the stains off, and if they are real rough from blasting then it's harder
'56 "C170 and change"
'52 Packard 200
'68 Arctic Cat P12 Panther
"He's a menace to everything in the air. Yes, birds too." - Airplane
Your engine sure is looking good Miles. Won't be too long before you will be cranking it up and breaking it in.
Now you may have to watch those Polish pistons, they may want some sausage instead of avgas (might be cheaper) and while flying don't be surprised if the plane starts doing the poka
Oven cleaner did a fine job of cleaning my shrouds.
Vic
N2609V
48 Ragwing
A Lanber 2097 12 gauge O/U Sporting
A happy go lucky Ruger Red label 20 ga
12N Aeroflex
Andover NJ http://www.sandhillaviation.com
Miles,
If you have access to a buffer, just a little bit of time the heat muff shrouds polish up nicely. If you do go this route I have found that leaving them mounted on the heat exchanger makes them a lot easier to hang onto while buffing. If you can stop the leaks around the riser pipe joints the shrouds will stay bright for a long time.
John E. Barrett
aka. Johneb
Sent from my "Cray Super Computer"
Miles,
Do you have any buddies that have Imboard Engine Boats, they usually have a pumping system for changing oil. The one I use would work fine reversed and hooked up to a hardware store fitting in one of the 1/8" pipe plugs in the oil system.
John E. Barrett
aka. Johneb
Sent from my "Cray Super Computer"
I have a one quart capacity commercial pressure pot which has a schrader valve and spray nozzle on it. I've seen other mech's who have them for spraying solvents and such. I removed the spray head and clamped some Tygon hose to it. I have seen them in catalogs but could not find one on the internet so you could see what I'm talking about. I removed the left main galley plug on the front of the engine and installed a threaded hose adapter. It just cleared the prop spinner bulkhead. It took about 1.5 quarts before it started dripping out of the FM oil filter adapter. It took the oil pressure gauge to 45 psi. It was a little messy but worked. I thought about using a cheap garden sprayer which should be able to generate at least 20 psi. Oil pressure came up immediately upon engine start which literally started on the first revolution.
I won't be back to the house until April 15 or 22. If you can wait that long I'll send it to you to use.
