Preheating

A place to relax and discuss flying topics.

Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher

dkalwishky
Posts: 95
Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 2:20 am

Preheating

Post by dkalwishky »

I've like to here what some of you do for preheating your aircraft, besides calling the FBO and having them do it :)

Dave
Vermont170
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 9:27 pm

Post by Vermont170 »

I have a Reiff system installed in my plane. It heats the cylinders with bands and the oil with an aluminum block siliconed to the sump.

I plug it in 3 or 4 hours before I fly and the oil temp is usually well into the green immediatly after start-up, when its 10 or 15 degrees out. We see some pretty cold temps here in Vermont, if its below 0 I don't usually fly.

An engine cover really helps. I use an old sleeping bag.

I researched the Reiff and Tanis systems and bought the Reiff because I thought the cylinder bands would be more durable than the probes that Tanis uses. This is the second winter I've had and I'm happy with it.
AL
1949 170A
User avatar
jrenwick
Posts: 2045
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 8:34 pm

Preheating

Post by jrenwick »

I'm in Minnesota, and I use Reiff heater bands on the cylinder bases and a pad on the sump. Kennon Covers in Sheridan, WY (http://www.kennoncovers.com) made some very nice engine, propeller and spinner covers for my 170. I don't think they had made a 170 cover before mine, but now they have the right dimensions, at least for an O-300 powered 170.

On a 40-degree day the head temps are about 130, oil temp about 115, and under the covers, the prop is toasty warm, too. I haven't been through a winter with this rig, so I haven't got experience with colder OATs yet. The preheaters are on a 7-day timer, as recommended by Reiff. It goes on Friday morning and off again Sunday night, because with the shorter winter days I only have time for flying on weekends.

Many people recommend *not* leaving electric preheaters on full-time because it may cause trapped water to recirculate between the sump and the colder parts of the engine, but I was a member of a flying club here (Cessna 152, 172, 182RG, all Lycoming powered) that has done it for decades with Tanis heaters, no problems. Their planes all fly at least weekly, often several times per week. Frequency of use surely helps.
John Renwick
Minneapolis, MN
Former owner, '55 C-170B, N4401B
'42 J-3 Cub, N62088
'50 Swift GC-1B, N2431B, Oshkosh 2009 Outstanding Swift Award, 2016 Best Continuously Maintained Swift
User avatar
mit
Posts: 1051
Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:54 am

Post by mit »

I use one of these at home and a propane heater at the cabin.

http://216.152.196.69/catalog/sections/ ... ge0001.htm

I'm thinking about getting one of those honda generators for preheating at the cabin.

Of coarse you need an engine cover too.

http://www.alaskatent.com/products/cove ... covers.htm
Tim
User avatar
3958v
Posts: 543
Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 12:00 am

Post by 3958v »

We don't have temps below 15 here often in SE PA so I mostly use a pad heater on the oil pan. It works great on those days when it is above 20. It warms the oil in about an hour and makes the plane a lot easier to start. If it is real cold I use the FBO's Pre heater but mostly in those temps I find something better to do since the cabin heat in the ragwing with pancake mufflers leaves much to be desired. Bill K
Polished 48 170 Cat 22 JD 620 & Pug
AR Dave
Posts: 1070
Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 3:06 pm

Preheat

Post by AR Dave »

Under Search - type in Preheat for 16 discussions on the topic.
mvivion
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 2:07 am

Post by mvivion »

The Reiff system or the Tanis systems both work well. If its above 35 or so F, I don't bother, though.

I have a Kennon engine cover that's four or five years old. I had to send it back at first, though, cause it didn't cover the rather large opening in the cowling on the bottom, just forward of the firewall (duh!!). I sent it back, paid them more, and they made one that fit.

Alaska Wing covers and Lynn Cunningham (http://www.cunninghamcovers.com) make good, compact engine and wing covers that fit. The last set of Kennon Wing covers I bought lasted precisely two winters, and then fell apart. This was their "extremely UV resistant" model. Right.

Anyway, you don't want to leave a pre heat system plugged in if you aren't going to fly. Especially you don't want to have one cycling. That's per Lycoming, but I have to believe Continental is similar in their advice.

Too much moisture in and out.

Mike V
N3067A
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Nov 05, 2004 2:17 am

Post by N3067A »

I have the Tanis heating system on my Lyc O-360 powered 170B. Separate heating element on each cylinder and one for the oil sump. Also a Tanis quilted engine blanket. At home my airplane is inside a closed, cold hanger. Normally if night-time temps are below freezing and I know I'm flying next morning I plug it in the evening before and leave it heat all night. Depending on outside temperatures, I want it plugged in at least 2 hours, more is better. Also, I have one of those little electric in-car auto type heaters on a good solid no-tip base I made that I put in the cabin on the floor ahead of the pilot seat so the cabin, instruments & avionics are warm when I start up. Mostly, THAT'S to warm the gyros, altho' it's sure nice that the seats are warm too! I don't usually bother with the engine blanket with the engine plugged in in a closed hanger all nite, but use it to keep the engine warm if I'm shut down outside for a few hours away from home. It gets pretty cold here in northeast Montana & this system has served me well. I've flown down to 30 below or so, but a little older & a wee bit wiser now? Anymore if it's colder than about 10 below I'm asking myself, "do I REALLY have to fly today?" lol
John C. Saubak
Peerless
Montana
mrpibb
Posts: 395
Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 10:48 pm

Post by mrpibb »

I have been using northern companion ( the preheater that is), I set it up when i get to the airplane and by the time I get my covers off and pefight done im ready to go, unless its real cold then it usually takes about 45mins to a hour. I like it cause its compact and travels well, runs on avgas, jet A, auto gas and of course camp fuel, plus you can heat your soup up too. I usually preheat when the temps fall below 40-45 deg, trying to set a positive example at the airport :wink:
Vic
Vic
N2609V
48 Ragwing
A Lanber 2097 12 gauge O/U Sporting
A happy go lucky Ruger Red label 20 ga
12N Aeroflex
Andover NJ
http://www.sandhillaviation.com
Image

" Air is free untill you have to move it" BB.
zero.one.victor
Posts: 2271
Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 12:11 am

Post by zero.one.victor »

Our winters here in western Washiongton are wet, but not too cold. We do get periods down below freezing,though. In the past, I have hung a drop-light (aka trouble-light) with a 125-watt heat bulb under the engine with an old blanket thrown over the top. Left on all the time, it keeps the engine warm enough for easy starting & immediate oil pressure, yet not so hot that condensattion inside the engine is a problem (near as I can tell). I've also used a small electric space heater to keep the cabin warm & dry.
Last winter, several other people in my 9-unit hangar building started doing the same thing, and our electrical bill skyrocketed (I do the books for our hangar condo). I think this year I'm not gonna do the engine light, and will only pre-heat the cabin for a half-hour or so while I gas up & do my pre-flight. PLan on urging others to do the same, lead by example you know. I use Phillips 20-50 oil, so I don't think the cold engine will be a problem, like I said it doesn't get that cold around here anyway.

Eric
User avatar
GAHorn
Posts: 21004
Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2002 8:45 pm

Post by GAHorn »

The MX Library section of this forum contains TCM SIL 03-1 which addresses engine preheat considerations.
One statement in that Service Information Letter is: "Do not leave an engine-mounted pre-heater system on for more than twenty- four hours prior to flight. Continuous operation of engine-mounted preheater systems may result in aggressive corrosive attack internal to the engine. "
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
dkalwishky
Posts: 95
Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2002 2:20 am

Post by dkalwishky »

Thanks Guys for the replys!

Dave
User avatar
GAHorn
Posts: 21004
Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2002 8:45 pm

Post by GAHorn »

I don't have the difficult wx conditions in Texas others have, so my solution may not be as elegant or effective as theirs especially in Arctic conditions, but....
I bought a WalMart "Milk-House" 1500 watt heater for less than $20. I obtained some metal ducting from the local hardware/bldg-supply normally used to exhaust furnaces from a bldg., and pop-rivetted it onto the heater. I then bought six-feet of aluminum flexible ducting (8" diameter, similar to clothes-dryer hose but made of soft, flexible aluminum) and slip it onto the metal duct on the heater, route it up the cowling exhaust just below the firewall. This keeps the electric heater away from the area just below the airplane. (I don't like electric items sitting below gascolators.)
The night before I intend to fly (or 4 hours whichever comes last) I either plug it in, or set a coffee/electric-light timer to turn it on.
Although I don't usually need it here in TX, it's pretty effective because that heat rises and heats up the entire engine, sump, cylinders, fuel system, cowl-area. An old blanket, sleeping bag, and/or cowl inlet plugs will increase the effectiveness. A minor side benefit is a warm firewall that keeps the instruments and cabin a bit more liveable at startup.
Turn it off, pull it out of the hangar, and the thing usually doesn't even need priming to start. Oil pressure comes right up. I"ve had good results down to 19-degrees F. (Of course, the cowl interior temps are up around 100 degrees if a blanket is used.)
Some folks use expanded foam fabric such as shipping companies use for delicate items, to make blade covers to wrap the prop blades. (They're an excellent heat-sink and really suck heat out of an engine.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
User avatar
N3243A
Posts: 282
Joined: Thu Jul 04, 2002 12:51 am

Post by N3243A »

What...everyone has AC power outlets at their tiedown and can use all the fancy 110V goodies? Well I don't so I use a Red Dragon 50,000 BTU 12V forced air propane unit, designed mainly for small engine preheating. It's not real light and requires a 12V battery but works excellent where you have vehicle access so you can use the car battery. The forced air with 6 feet of ducting allows you to defrost windshields and other parts too. I find the Red Dragon much more versatile than the Northern Companion which is mainly for bush use because of it's size and weight. The Dragon also has twice the BTU's output compared to the Nothern Companion.

Tim, Do you really use a 416,000 BTU Herman Nelson for preheat? It must heat your engine up in about 5 minutes... I have only seen those things used on the big radials like C-46's etc.

Bruce
User avatar
mit
Posts: 1051
Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:54 am

Post by mit »

N3243A wrote: Tim, Do you really use a 416,000 BTU Herman Nelson for preheat? It must heat your engine up in about 5 minutes... I have only seen those things used on the big radials like C-46's etc.

Bruce
Yes I do when I'm at home. You still have to let the heat warm up the inside. At -20 I like to give it a couple of hours. Keeps me warm durning the preflight. :D I just bought a 2000 watt honda, I'm going to take it to the cabin when I go and see how it works with 2, 850 watt interior heaters you know the little buddies.
Tim
Post Reply