Primer Modification on the O-300

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blueldr
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Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by blueldr »

On the O-300 engine, the stock primer system primes the lower end of the left bank of cylinders. I used to have a sort of rough start in really cold weather, so I modified the system.
Inasmuch as each cylinder has a 1/8th in. pipe plug at each intake valve, I removed the plugs and installed primer fittings with the very small orifice. From an aircraft junk yard I got a six position fuel spider from a fuel injected engine and connected the primer discharge line to it with a line to each cylinder, thus priming all six cylinders simultaneously right at the intake valve. The original primer hole in the left intake manifold was plugged off.
This system made for much smoother and reliable cold weather starts.
I know of other cases where the primer dischatge line was split and used to prime the bottom of both intake manifolds. I was told that this also helped in cold weather though I suspect that it would require a little more cranking than my system.
BL
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Greg Bockelman
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by Greg Bockelman »

Just out of curiosity, what does it take to make that modification legal? Just a logbook entry? STC? :?:
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blueldr
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by blueldr »

If you're concerned about the liability of that well hidden primer modification on a sixty five year old airplane, and you're allergic to sleeping pills, don't even think about doing it. You're probably only going to fly on a nice Summer afternoon when a primer is superfluous anyway.

What it takes to make that modification is a few simple tools and a desire to make a diifference in an operation that needs improvement.
BL
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cessna170bdriver
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by cessna170bdriver »

With all due respect, I think that's a solution looking for a problem. In 33 years I've never had a problem using my single point primer and/or accelerator pump to get enough fuel to start a cold O-300.
Miles

“I envy no man that knows more than myself, but pity them that know less.”
— Thomas Browne
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blueldr
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by blueldr »

If it had not been a troublesome problem for me, in very cold weather, I would never have made the conversion effort.
BL
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c170b53
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by c170b53 »

I've had my primer lines crack more than once. Having said that, when its cold, you need a few shots.
Jim McIntosh..
1953 C170B S/N 25656
02 K1200RS
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GAHorn
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by GAHorn »

Houston Northwest Airport, 2002, OAT 28 degrees F.... I gave it 4 or 5 shots (I forgot how many) of primer...and then re-loaded the primer and gave it a crank.
It caught on about the 4th or 5th blade and barely running...I gave it that last shot of primer S L O W L Y... and it finally started. It took almost a full minute before the oil pressure came up ...and then it went to the TOP of the gauge...and stayed there while I idled it for about 10 or 15 minutes before it came down below 60 psi.
It only came off the bottom of the Oil Temp gauge after about 20 minutes of fast idle... when I then accomplished a run-up.

I've always pre-heated my engine since then with a hot-air heater called a "milk stool heater" with some 8" aluminum ducting. (Total cost less than $25.)

If it's really really COLD...a non-pre-heated O300 is hard to start. I believe Dick's mod is likely eligible to be called a "minor alteration" since TCM provided the primer-ports and the GO300 used the associated hardware in a similar manner.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
hilltop170
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by hilltop170 »

My C180 has the exact primer system Dick described going to each cylinder. I thought it came from the factory that way since there is no logbook entry or 337 for it. It works great and I have had to start the engine unheated a couple of times in really cold weather, as in 10°F.
Richard Pulley
2014-2016 TIC170A Past President
1951 170A, N1715D, s/n 20158, O-300D
Owned from 1973 to 1984.
Bought again in 2006 after 22 years.
It's not for sale!
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GAHorn
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by GAHorn »

An issue with the standard primer set up is the fuel is introduced to the left intake manifold spyder...which can allow fuel to run back down the carb and into the carb heat box where an intake fire can occur. (An outside observer with a fire extinguisher is a good idea when priming a cold engine. Also, if an intake fire is suspected, KEEP CRANKING to suck the fire up into the engine. Also, an intake fire calls for an inspection of the carb air box, air filter, etc.)

The primer-ports in the cylinder at the intake valves is less likely to cause such a problem, although the trade-off is that the intake valve lubrication is easily washed off with excess fuel.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
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blueldr
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by blueldr »

Richard P.
The induction system on the O-470 engine in the C-180 is a completely different system using intake runners rather than an intake manifold such as is on the O-300. I believe all the O-470 carbureted engines are equipped with six cylinder priming.
BL
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BeeMan
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by BeeMan »

Some years ago I owned a C182A converted to conventional gear and flew it on skis in the Alaska winter. As I recall, our 0-470 was initially a single port primer and we had our A&P modify it to the 6-port primer because it was so rough starting in cold weather. After modifying the primer system it started easily and ran smoothly in cold weather. Just my experience, YMMV
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4BravoWhiskey
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Re: Primer Modification on the O-300

Post by 4BravoWhiskey »

I can see how blueldr's setup would help. I had trouble starting mine in AK late this last summer when it was around 30F and even around 40F. It would take a lot of primer and cranking to start, and then not keep running. I got a tip from a local A&P that helped immensely. Pull carb heat on to help keep it running after startup. Two strokes of primer, and then pull the primer out. Start cranking and push in the primer. Then remove carb heat after engine is running good. This worked every time, usually just 2-3 turns of the prop at most. I have the original primer setup. Maybe this is more or less standard in colder climates (and sounds similar to what George described), but being from Texas I wasn't familiar.

I've noticed (actually others outside have told me) that with more than 2 shots of primer I'm getting fuel dripping out of the carb, and hence the fire potential.
'53 170B N314BW
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