The International Cessna 170 Association

No key, easier to steal. Make a throttle lock.

John

n3833v wrote:No key, easier to steal. Make a throttle lock.

John

A key doesn't prevent/slow theft, if the cowl can be opened and the mag p-leads cut. The throttle lock (and/or a prop lock) is a good idea for any plane.

Here's a solution for less than $10:
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8143D ... 94YMF9NF6Q

Love the switch, it looks WWI!

I am sure that should be the case, but my key comes out in any position:)

There is an AD to change the switch if the key comes out in any but the off position.

Ordered 6 new Superior cylinders, plus misc. parts for engine overhaul. Lots more stuff still to come.

I just started an overhaul on my O-300A. My spinner backplate was cracked ($$$), had the engine mount repaired and powder coated by Atlee Dodge ( superb work and $$$), and I will likely be replacing the engine mount bushings with the 180 metal bushings ($$$) rather than the rubber mounts.

God please save me. I haven't heard yet about the state of the (3 hole) oil pan or the crankshaft.

Hate to say it but powder coat sucks. Works great in dry conditions but hides cracks and when scratched, which happens the corrosion gets underneath and runs like wildfire. Of course that is in salt water float country. Nothing like epoxy primert and a good topcoat. POR 15 is a good primer that is bullet proof

POR 15 is an excellent product when used carefully and thoughtfully.

You put it on bare metal, doesn't matter if there is rust and in fact they say it is better. It encapsulates the metal and stops rust because the metal will never see water or oxygen again. The product is impervious to nearly any chemical you can find. It gets tougher, water does not break down fact water in the air is what makes the product cure most soften it.

Here is the problem I see with it on most airplane parts. You can not get it off. You have to grind it off or burn it off. In most cases destroying the part it is on. It is very thin but a second coat which the manufacture suggests, can quickly add thickness to the paint and it will undersize any bolt holes that will have to be drilled defeating the encapsulation. POR 15 must be topcoated as it does break down under UV and the top coating just adds more thickness to the paint.

I would be very careful what airplane parts I put POR 15 on. Now my tractor rims or my car frame, that is a different story.

marathonrunner wrote:Hate to say it but powder coat sucks. Works great in dry conditions but hides cracks and when scratched, which happens the corrosion gets underneath and runs like wildfire. Of course that is in salt water float country. Nothing like epoxy primert and a good topcoat. POR 15 is a good primer that is bullet proof

I have always wondered if powder coating is porous. No one I have asked seems to know the answer, even the repair stations that do powder coating.

Powder coating is not porous. It protects by sealing the metal from the elements. And all will be fine until a minor blemish brakes the seal.

I spoke to Gunnar Hodgson, the engineering representative at Atlee Dodge regarding the desireability of powder coating. He told me that "98% of the time" they recommend powder coating for all metal parts going on an airplane, including engine mounts.

He did say that for some airplanes that would see very heavy duty salt water service, they would use an alternative but that for most applications, powder coating provides superior protection and service life.

I have been a customer of theirs for about 40 years and am completely comfortable with his recommendation. I understand that others may have a different opinion.

I agree with you Pete, I personally knew Atlee since 1983, he was the same age as my mother and it was entertaining to listen to them swap stories when she was in Alaska visiting. She always liked going up to the old shop to hang out and drink coffee. And she didn't even like airplanes, must have been Atlee. He is missed since he passed away.

I have always respected the opinions of Atlee and Steve Kracke who started working with Atlee back in the 1970s if I remember correctly. I do not know Gunnar but will take your word for his advice being good, I have never been led astray at F.A. Dodge.

That being said, I have had three engine mounts repaired and reconditioned there and have had all three powder coated with aluminum color. It is attractive and it was my opinion if a mount ever did crack, it would also crack thru the powder coat and show the red fretting discharge from the crack clearly against the aluminum color. That is my reasoning for not using black.

I sent my original C-180 mount back to Atlee to inspect, repair, and re-powder coat it this spring before the new P-Ponk O-520D went back on. They had recertified and powder coated it back in 1995 when the first O-520 was installed and it was still in good shape. They have jigs for most engine mounts and will add gussets in high stress areas not gussetted on stock mounts which is especially important on horsepower upgrades. They inspected and powder coated the 170 engine mount back in 2006 and it still looks new. They do good work.

Thanks Arash! They look good. Don't dare show them to my wife!

Ordered one of these after seeing Steve McGreevy's at the fall flyin in MN.

https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/ram-s ... n-cup.html

Getting rid of the droop tips. So polishing the orignal ones.
Well cleaning off the 65 years of oxidation. Amazing what a little cut polish will do...