More Tail Wheel Questions

How to keep the Cessna 170 flying and airworthy.

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MoonlightVFR
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More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by MoonlightVFR »

I am going to run out of questions about the Scott 3200 as installed on the Cessna 170, but please bear with me for a few more inquiries.

Concerned about airing up the tail wheel. The stem does not make the neatest presentation and keeping the air hose firmly engaged is challenging at times. Keeps slipping off.

It is such a small tube and I am afraid I will do what I did to a bicycle tube once. So much air so fast it Blew up.

Is there an attachment that allows one to finesse the fill?

What would you consider a Best Practice method to air the tail wheel?

Regards
gradyb, '54 B N2890C
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Bruce Fenstermacher
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by Bruce Fenstermacher »

There is no neat and elegant way to do it. It is messy cause you have to get down on your knees and your likely to bang your head into the rudder then the elevator. No special air chuck either though you would want one that is not beat to heck and hard to seat correctly on the tube stem.

Just get down there and with a finger on one hand bend the valve stem out and away from the wheel as best you can and still that air chuck on it. You should not really be scared of blowing out the tire as you did an old bike tire. This tube and tire. and in fact the entire tail wheel is used or was used in industrial applications where the tire was aired up with twice the 35 lbs we use. So the tire and tube should take over pressure.

Your right, it is a small tire and only takes a few seconds to go from no pressure to 60 lbs. Here is an idea. Using your own air tank bleed the air to say 45 lbs in the tank. You can usually do this with the handy regulator on the tank output most compressors have. Then when filling the tire you can't over pressure more than 10 lbs. A very quick opening of the valve stem will bleed the tire to the perfect 35 lbs. Though I don't bother, taking the weight off the tire might help make the process seem less critical and if you've jacked the plane high enough you may actually miss the elevator with your forehead.
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pdb
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by pdb »

Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:
Just get down there and with a finger on one hand bend the valve stem out and away from the wheel as best you can and still that air chuck on it.
The easy way to do this is to spend .25¢ at an auto parts place on a plastic valve stem extender and screw it on when filling the tailwheel tire. It makes getting the air chuck on much easier. When you're done, just put it in the glove box for the next time you need it.
Pete Brown
Anchorage, Alaska
N4563C 1953 170B
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blueldr
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by blueldr »

If airing up the tail wheel is the toughest job you ever have on your airplane, you will be one really lucky owner.
BL
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KS170A
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by KS170A »

pdb wrote:The easy way to do this is to spend .25¢ at an auto parts place on a plastic valve stem extender and screw it on when filling the tailwheel tire. It makes getting the air chuck on much easier. When you're done, just put it in the glove box for the next time you need it.
This is exactly what I've done. If you're concerned about airing it up too fast (which hasn't been an issue for me yet), you could always use a hand pump (with one of those extenders). I keep a hand pump and extender in my plane, just in case.
--Josh
1950 170A
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Bruce Fenstermacher
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by Bruce Fenstermacher »

I've found not all stem extensions are equal. Some will not open the Schrader valve in the stem, others will not open the valve in the air chuck itself.
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canav8
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by canav8 »

If you have added air to the tailwheel and not fixed the problem with the stem, I say take the wheel off, take it apart and look at the tube and the stem. You probably have already cut the stem with the edge of the rim or a pinch in the stem. It will be awful inconvenient if you get a flat somewhere away from home.

Here is how I fix the problem. Look at the tube and stem of the tube. Also check the wheel for any burrs that can cut the tube. Also take a small rag and wipe the inside of the tire with it. If the rag hangs up inside the tire somewhere, you may have a Foreign Object, like a thorn in there that you will want to remove. When installing a tube in the tire use a little talcom powder(baby powder) in the tire.Spread it around rubbing the inside of the tire with it. Then rub the tube with the Talc also. Re-install the tube in the wheel and tire assembly. Add a little air to the tube with no shrader valve in there.This allows the tube to slip around when there is a little air in there. Then put the tire on. Air up the tube up to about 05 lbs. without the shrader valve installed. This blows the tube up and gets the kinks out and then the air will expell out. Slide the tube around til the stem is in the proper position. Put on the other sidewall of the tire on the wheel. Then install the shrader valve and add about 10lbs of air and bounce the tire on the ground all the way around a few times. This will make sure the tube is not pinched anywhere. Then air to 35lbs and reinstall in the fork.D
52' C-170B N2713D Ser #25255
Doug
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johneeb
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by johneeb »

http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-chuck ... 68271.html

This may be a good solution to both problems (and only $9.79). I use an extension like this without the gauge and valve with good (easy) results.
Last edited by johneeb on Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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c170b53
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by c170b53 »

Probably is one of the harder things to do easily. I ground down the head of my air-chuck to get it onto the stem without blowing a fuse.
Jim McIntosh..
1953 C170B S/N 25656
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170C
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by 170C »

The valve stem extension from an auto supply store is what I have used for years with complete success. Of course when you stop the plane, as luck will have it, the valve stem will likely be behind the fork :cry: At least on mine there is usually some grease to get on your hand or glove, but that keeps things from rusting :mrgreen: None of this prevents hitting your head on the elevator or bruising your knees :o Another nice thing to have in your tool bag is a Schrader valve removal tool made from the valve stem off an automotive rim. Cut it to the desired length and super glue the valve core cap (with the stem remover on it). Makes removal and replacement of valve stems (shrader valves) very easy. Then of course you can purchase one from Snap On if you want to thin out your wallet :lol:
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Grasshopper.Kingdom
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by Grasshopper.Kingdom »

If you are bald wear a hat or wig so you don't get a cut on your head when bumping the rudder or elevator.
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Bruce Fenstermacher
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by Bruce Fenstermacher »

Grasshopper.Kingdom wrote:If you are bald wear a hat or wig so you don't get a cut on your head when bumping the rudder or elevator.
Sage advice if you could know when your about to bump your head on the rudder and elevator. And if you know that I'd be buying lottery tickets and paying someone else to bump their head servicing my 170. :lol:
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N2255D
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Re: More Tail Wheel Questions

Post by N2255D »

Bruce Fenstermacher wrote:
Grasshopper.Kingdom wrote:If you are bald wear a hat or wig so you don't get a cut on your head when bumping the rudder or elevator.
Sage advice if you could know when your about to bump your head on the rudder and elevator. And if you know that I'd be buying lottery tickets and paying someone else to bump their head servicing my 170. :lol:
Guess it's kind off like wearing your seat belt. When your flying you never know when your going to need it so you always fasten it. When your working you never know when you'll need it so you always wear it. :lol:
Walt Weaver
Spencer Airport (NC35)
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