C145 exhaust

philnino · Post by **philnino** » Thu Jul 31, 2003 5:47 pm

I have been told of a certain type of exhaust called "Handlin Williams" sp.?I am trying to replace the exhaust on my A model because the fit seems incorrect though we have tried to adjust it several times. I was told the H.W. will fit with better clearance for the intake runners which seem to be overly close on mine.
Thanks

Post by **GAHorn** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 6:14 pm

Hanlon-Wilson is/was the original manufacturer of mufflers of the later style, after Cessna no longer used the "pancake" style mufflers.
If you are referring to the exhaust "risers" (the short pipes which bolt directly to the cylinder and connect them to the muffers) not clearing the intake elbows, there is a simpler and far less expensive option.
Grind the flanges of the risers the minimum amount to fit. Do NOT grind the intake elbows. Many times the gasket-flanges of the spiral-wound type must be ground slightly to fit without interference with the intake elbows.
Another caution: Later Hanlon-Wilson Cessna 172 mufflers (post 1958) do not fit a 170. The 172 mufflers were larger to accomodate increased cabin heating, and they will interfere with the 170 cowling. The correct Hanlon-Wilson PNs are contained in your IPC for your airplane.

funseventy · Post by **funseventy** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 6:52 pm

George,

My mufflers are good but I'm afraid the flanges on the risers are warped and to thin to grind. Will I have any luck just replacing the risers or will I have trouble with leaks at the joint. Do you have any knowledge here to put my mind at ease.

Kelly

Post by **GAHorn** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 11:17 pm

I recommend new risers by Knisely Welding (Loomis, Ca., 916/652-5891)
They have nice thick flanges and excellent fit and workmanship. You'll be very happy. I suggest you replace them all on each side as a 3-riser set.
Bolt them on loosely, fit the mufflers, then tighten the risers. Last, wrap the joints with muffler tape (Victor brand from Wal Mart auto section) and tighten the clamps with new stainless bolts/nuts from Aircraft Spruce 877-477-7823. You'll be happy.

4-Shipp · Post by **4-Shipp** » Mon Aug 04, 2003 7:17 pm

George,

If you are on line this afternoon, could you post the part numbers for the stacks? I just tried to order a set from Knisely but I am at work and don't have my parts catalogue. Thanks.

Bruce

Post by **GAHorn** » Mon Aug 04, 2003 7:26 pm

Bruce, the Hanlon-Wilson mufflers use the following exhaust risers to connect the cylinder to the muffers.
Each side uses:
2 each- PN 0550157-7
1 each- PN 0550157-8

These are called "exhaust tube, inlet"s.

The original pancake style used different pn's. Those above will not fit.
Knisely is very knowlegeable and should easily help you, but contact me again if you need further assistance, OK?

4-Shipp · Post by **4-Shipp** » Mon Aug 04, 2003 7:40 pm

What aer the "pancake" style mufflers? Are they pre"53 B-model? My airplane has the two stacks in the top and the front stack comes in the front. Thanks.

Post by **GAHorn** » Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:03 pm

4-Shipp wrote:What aer the "pancake" style mufflers? Are they pre"53 B-model? My airplane has the two stacks in the top and the front stack comes in the front. Thanks.

Bruce, you have the Hanlon-Wilson type muffers. The early ragwing and A-models were originally issued with "pancake" mufflers which were rather flat, with long, curving exhaust risers or tubes which connected them to the cylinders. The later Hanlon-Wilsons were tubular shaped mufflers which used two short, and one longer curved riser. (I think of a riser getting it's name because it rises from the muffer to the cylinder, but it's the tube than connects the cyl. to the muff.)

cessna170bdriver · Post by **cessna170bdriver** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:21 pm

gahorn wrote:I recommend new risers by Knisely Welding (Loomis, Ca., 916/652-5891)
They have nice thick flanges and excellent fit and workmanship. You'll be very happy. I suggest you replace them all on each side as a 3-riser set.
Bolt them on loosely, fit the mufflers, then tighten the risers. Last, wrap the joints with muffler tape (Victor brand from Wal Mart auto section) and tighten the clamps with new stainless bolts/nuts from Aircraft Spruce 877-477-7823. You'll be happy.

George,

I'm having trouble locating muffler tape locally. Is this the stuff you're talking about? http://wwww.shop.com/9721306.phtm I've always had minor leaks at the riser/muffler joints and I'd like to fix that this time around.

Miles

Post by **GAHorn** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:27 pm

That's probably satisfactory. The stuff I used was actually red, and the stuff in that pkg appears clear. The stuff I used was a woven, synthetic product that tends to melt and vulcanize itself to the pipe, and the clamps lend it structural integrity. Still working good after 3 years on mine.
AutoZone also handled the stuff I used, but their pkg had less product in it, at more cost than WM.

cessna170bdriver · Post by **cessna170bdriver** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:47 pm

I tried AutoZone last night, and all they had was woven, cheesecloth-looking tape that you activate with water, wrap around the pipe and allow to cure. It looked way too thick to use under the riser clamps. For a couple of bucks, I'll try the stuff I found on line.

Miles

PS, I also tried finding acid proof paint for the battery box at AutoZone and they looked at me like I'd asked for a camshaft for a 1903 Wright Flyer.

Miles

Mike Smith · Post by **Mike Smith** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:57 pm

I end up cleaning my battery box every year at the annual. This year I tried the Rustoleum brand paint in a little pint can (not the spray) and painted it on. It looks to be much thicker than any of the spray stuff I've used in the past. It just takes a little longer to dry. Hopefully this will be thick enough to keep the metal from corroding.

lowNslow · Post by **lowNslow** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 5:49 pm

Miles wrote:I'm having trouble locating muffler tape locally. Is this the stuff you're talking about? http://wwww.shop.com/9721306.phtm I've always had minor leaks at the riser/muffler joints and I'd like to fix that this time around.

Miles, while checking out the site you mention I noticed they also carry this stuff:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... _Putty.htm

And since it is made by Permatex it has to be aviation approved.

cessna170bdriver · Post by **cessna170bdriver** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:43 pm

lowNslow wrote:Miles, while checking out the site you mention I noticed they also carry this stuff:
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... _Putty.htm

And since it is made by Permatex it has to be aviation approved.

Would you just stuff this around the joint, then cover with the clamp? I was thinking of something fairly thin that I could wrap around the joint and cover with the clamp.

Miles

PS: I just went to order a couple of packages of the stuff at http://wwww.shop.com/9721306.phtm, and noticed that under "Customers who bought the items in your shopping cart also bought..." are listed a toilet flush valve, umbrella table hole plug, and a garage door opener. There's certainly more than one way to plug a hole.

Anyway, decided not to order, as shipping was going to be $8.50 on $2.50 worth of stuff.

lowNslow · Post by **lowNslow** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 7:35 pm

Miles wrote:Would you just stuff this around the joint, then cover with the clamp? I was thinking of something fairly thin that I could wrap around the joint and cover with the clamp.

I not sure it would even work, but I guess you could try packing it around the joint and let the clamps squeeze out the excess. This might leave to thin a layer to be effective. Better stick with the flush valve.