Collection of questions

[Romeo Tango]

I've searched the databases and the literature, and found no answers. I solicit the collective wisdom of the troop -

1) My CheckMate checklist indicates that shutdown is done by switching Mags off, and then leaning the engine. That's different than all other's I've seen, and from the AFM/POH. Which is right and why?

2) While approaching my '48 170 at tie down with strong gusty tailwinds, I saw the flaps being pulled and held down by the wind. Are there any suggestions/commercial products for securing the flaps during tiedown that will hold them in place? I had to replace a flap cable recently, and noticed that the only place I have repaired previous-owner damage was on the flaps, so this design clearly gets some good abuse.

Thanks in advance -

Richard

[BloomerJohn]

I shiut mine down in same order as CheckMate

For each side, take two 5x5 squares of 1/4" plywood, cover one side of each with carpet, drill 3/8 hole thru both in center of square. Place 1/4 x 2" carrage bolt thru both pieces placed so carpet side is together. Slide into slot between flap and aeleron, no need to clamp tight. Hold in place with light cord between the bolt and tie down ring. Use a small section of bungie on one end of the cord to keep tension on it. My grampa had this deviceon his 140 since the mid 50's and I made a set for my 170.

Also cut a third piece for the rudder. Cut a 'V' notch on one side. Drill one hole on each side of the 'V'. Use bungie and light line to hook into the middle hinge areas of the elevator.

John

[dacker]

I use the same set up for my flaps, with one exception: I put the gust locks inboard between the elevator and fuselage. I used to put them between the flaps and ailerons until one weekend a strong blow came through that was enough to lift the elevator ( I had it strapped down with the seat belt). It was enough movement to flex the ailerons and work the gust locks off causing my flaps to "flap" all weekend. Result: cracks.
I believe there has been some previous discussion on not securing the yoke with the seat belts, you may find a little more info by doing a search, maybe try "gust locks"?
David

[flyguy]

AGAIN I SAY NO! NO! NO! SHUTTING DOWN THE ENGINE WITH THE MAGNETO SWITCH CAN BE A HAZARD TO YOUR HEALTH. WHAT YOU HAVE DONE IS LEAVE ENOUGH FUEL IN THE METERING SYSTEM IN THE CARB TO FIRE THE ENGINE SEVERAL ROTATIONS, IF THERE IS AN INADVERTANT MOVEMENT OF THE PROP WHILE THE MAGS ARE IN "CONTACT' POSITION! LEANING TO COMPLETE SHUT-DOWN IS THE BEST WAY TO GO! THE ORIGINAL 1952 CESSNA 170B POH INSTRUCTS: 1. MIXTURE FULL LEAN TILL ROTATION STOPS- DO NOT ADVANCE THE THROTTLE DURING THIS TIME - - 2. MAGNETO SWITCH TO "OFF" - - 3. MASTER SWITCH (ALL ELECTRICAL POWER) OFF.

GUST LOCKS FOR FLAP/AILERONS ON A 170 ARE PROBABLY THE BEST SOLUTION FOR IMMOBILIZING THEM. JUST PUT ON "BIG" 'REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT' RED RIBBONS AND ADD THAT ITEM TO YOUR PREFLIGHT CHECK LIST."

[GAHorn]

Yep, even FlyGuy got that one right...shut it down with mixture to rid the induction system of fuel so a hot mag won't fire the engine and start that 145 hp meat cleaver ....(and also to prevent condensation from fuel mixture from washing oil/lubrication off cylinder walls and adding to rust/corrosion of those cylinder walls.)

Savvy ragwing and A-model owners always park with full flaps down to prevent the wind (and helicopters) from beating the flaps to death. It's OK to use the seatbelts for ailerons/elevator in my opinion, especially if the two yokes are looped together with the left and right seat belts. This keeps either aileron from beating against a nearby stop. (Then all you have to do is lock the rudder, for it's free to blow around also, with a rope/bungee set up....never with wood clamps or the upper rib will get bent to smithereens.)

[zero.one.victor]

My two cents worth:
1) Throw that phony checklist away! The owner's manual & AFM are the real deal. Develope your own version of a checklist that works best for you,based on them.
2)Shut the engine down with the idle cut-off as George & Gary have described.
3) The ragwing flaps have no up-locks. If you're gonna be parked with a tailwind,leave them full down. Watch out you don't bop your noggin on them.
4) Seatbelt both yokes together to a full-up,neutral aileron position,like George describes.
5) Rudder: Cessna or somebody made a rudder-pedal lock aparatus that hooked to a slotted tab on the floor. I don't have one,neither does anybody I know. Rudder locks as described work, Or take a couple lengths of PVC pipe & sandwich the whole rudder/vertical stab assembly with them,fastened together fore & aft. I've also seen long strips of padded plywood used like this.
George's rope/bungee set-up is good too: you take a piece of inner tube or leather with a hole in it that fits over the tail position light on the rudder,with a rope/bungee going out & hooking to the outboard elevator hinges on each side. That lets the rudder move a little but keeps it from slamming back & forth.
6) Ragwing flaps seem to get beat up at the inboard end (where they actuate),probably from years of horsing them down at too high a speed. Mine had the flaps reinforced by a previous owner years ago. The Assn has a copy of the 337 for this mod. You might want to get a copy & check it out,it seems to have really helped prevent any more damage in this area.

Eric

[dacker]

When I read the post, the part about shutting down with the mags didn't quiet register. I don't believe that I have ever seen that method except for early 120s and 140s.
George, truly savvy A model drivers have already spent about an hour or so digging and blowing straw out of the wings through those perfectly sized Sparrow front doors that are installed on the wings . I pulled out about half a bale of hay (square bale not round bale ) with a length of all-thread after only a weekend of having the flaps down. I recommend only using that method as a last resort. You can get a pair of those little red plastic gust locks from Sporty's for about $15 if I remember correctly, or make them with scrap for nothing. Like I said before though, use them inboard not between the flaps and ailerons (your ailerons will wiggle even with the yoke tied).
David

[GAHorn]

Thanks, David! I forgot that A-models (at least one that I know) is so slow that sparrows can fly up from behind and make nests in the wings.

[dacker]

George...DOOM ON YOU! DOOM ON YOU!
I was trying to stay out of these speed wars seeing as I have a far supureor... supeeroror... smarter mind and all, but now you've done it.
I have no other recourse but to declare Yeehawd on you, and buddy I ain't talkin one of those little third world Yeehawds. This is liable to put whole civilizations back into the stone age... a feud the likes has never been seen.
So you'd best keep that shiny little bent wing of yours parked back on that ranch on the Pedernales with the skinny cows, I'm sure all those naked Hippys you hang out with up there will appreciate it (when they aren't looking for those funny mushrooms).
David

[flyguy]

ALL IMA GONNA SAY DAVEY BOY BOUT URE MESSAGE TO OLE GAYHORN IS """"""SICK HIM"""" HESA ALLUS STARTIN TU BEN THE POSTYS AND ENNER SUM DRIVVLE THAT AINT PERTINENT! JERK UP ON HIS CHAIN SUM MORE ! IMMA ENJOYN IT

[GAHorn]

Gawd! I've never laughed so hard!!!

[zero.one.victor]

"Yeehawd"- must be a hillbilly holy war! I love it! And plan to use it myself in the future.

Eric