Need more information
IPC fig 34A part lower hinge 0511280-4 hinge assembly
AN526-1032R9 screws attach to fuselage. I am assuming this to be a machine screw
I need to remove entire door however the phillps head screw is filled in w paint, it is stubborn and I don't want to disfigure it by over force.
My question is , WHAT is on the other side of this screw? is it an accessible from the inside simple nut or permanently fastened Nut Plate?
Whole problem stems from hinge pin not wanting to release, must remove door and place on flat workbench.
Regards
R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
- MoonlightVFR
- Posts: 624
- Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 5:55 pm
R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
gradyb, '54 B N2890C
Re: R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
You'will have to remove the seat and the fwd interior trim panel to gain access to the fwd. door post. Then you will be able to see the 3 individual nuts through a lightning hole in the door post. You're going to be twisting your tongue putting a socket on the nuts but if you have a 1/4 drive 3/8 swivel socket on a 12" extension it's not that bad.
Or you might try to carefully file the top end off the pin and trying a thin punch to tap the pin through.
Or you might try to carefully file the top end off the pin and trying a thin punch to tap the pin through.
Jim McIntosh..
1953 C170B S/N 25656
02 K1200RS
1953 C170B S/N 25656
02 K1200RS
Re: R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
Like Jim said, file the end off, a little penetrating oil and a small punch should take it out. Nothing really to hold it in there except for a little dirt or rust.c170b53 wrote:You'will have to remove the seat and the fwd interior trim panel to gain access to the fwd. door post. Then you will be able to see the 3 individual nuts through a lightning hole in the door post. You're going to be twisting your tongue putting a socket on the nuts but if you have a 1/4 drive 3/8 swivel socket on a 12" extension it's not that bad.
Or you might try to carefully file the top end off the pin and trying a thin punch to tap the pin through.
Ed Booth, 170-B and RV-7 Driver
Re: R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
I drilled the head off the screws and punched them out. You can use a magnet to fish them out.
When replacing them, I took a piece of scrap aluminum and mounted two nutplates. A long set of forceps will hold it in place while you start the screw. I had the gear legs off when I did mine so it was MUCH easier to reach in there but it's doable from in the cabin.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xl8JONB2h0Rrtngc2
Ignore the poor rivet heads, the photo was taken to aid in inspecting shop heads and most of those were re-shot. I think they are the hardest rivets to shoot on a 170.
When replacing them, I took a piece of scrap aluminum and mounted two nutplates. A long set of forceps will hold it in place while you start the screw. I had the gear legs off when I did mine so it was MUCH easier to reach in there but it's doable from in the cabin.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xl8JONB2h0Rrtngc2
Ignore the poor rivet heads, the photo was taken to aid in inspecting shop heads and most of those were re-shot. I think they are the hardest rivets to shoot on a 170.
- MoonlightVFR
- Posts: 624
- Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 5:55 pm
Re: R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
I am going to try the penetrating oil one more time.
A product by KANO called AeroKroil has been highly recommended.
A product by KANO called AeroKroil has been highly recommended.
gradyb, '54 B N2890C
Re: R Door Lower Hinge Attaachment
I can vouch for Aerokroil, Grady. Been using it for years. It and Mouse Milk are the best commercially available penetrating oils IMO. A 50/50 mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and MEK is even better than both of them. That mixture is the best, bar none, again IMO. You don't need to mix much of it. A little goes a long way.
Gene Feher
Argyle (1C3), NY
'52 170B N2315D s/n 20467 C-145-2
Experimental J3 Cub Copy N7GW O-200
Argyle (1C3), NY
'52 170B N2315D s/n 20467 C-145-2
Experimental J3 Cub Copy N7GW O-200