Painting
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Painting
Getting very close to painting my 55'. It has been completely stripped, been going over rivet heads and the hard to reach areas. I am about to go crazy! Anyone here ever heard of doing the Aluma Prep process and then onto the Alodine but instead of washing the Alodine off, letting it dry and sanding evenly and using that as your primer rather than also priming? Then obviously shoot the base coat actual paint of choice.
Seems I always heard to wash the Alodine off and let dry and then shoot primer and then paint...
Advice from anyone who has gone through painting much appreciated.
Seems I always heard to wash the Alodine off and let dry and then shoot primer and then paint...
Advice from anyone who has gone through painting much appreciated.
1955 Cessna 170B
Re: Painting
You should rinse the alodine off. You can't rinse too much.
You may be confusing the alodine process with etching. There are products that will etch the alclad, then apply primer........and are also "self etching" primers. These processes have evolved since I last slept, so best to talk to someone who is familiar with recent techniques
You may be confusing the alodine process with etching. There are products that will etch the alclad, then apply primer........and are also "self etching" primers. These processes have evolved since I last slept, so best to talk to someone who is familiar with recent techniques
Del Lehmann
Mena, Arkansas
Mena, Arkansas
Re: Painting
Just a ssuggestion, because of environmental concerns today's paint strippers are not as effective as the old products. I'd take a magnifying glass and have a good look at the rivet heads to ensure there's no edge whiskers or eyes that will be liberated from the rivets during the painting process. Also new EP sensitive primers may not stick as well as the old primers making correct prep even more important.
As for making painting mistakes, I'm saying, it's just that easy. Don't ask me how I know how harsh it is to strip and prep a set of wings after making a mistake and having to spend another $ 1500 on product which is nothing compared to the time and effort, to do it all over again.
I've not heard of not neutralizing the acid. I'm also puzzled, why you would want to contaminate the surfaces by sanding them to partially remove the conversion coating after creating it? These are Ideas I'd run from myself.
Lastly paint supplies are getting expensive, stupid like.
As for making painting mistakes, I'm saying, it's just that easy. Don't ask me how I know how harsh it is to strip and prep a set of wings after making a mistake and having to spend another $ 1500 on product which is nothing compared to the time and effort, to do it all over again.
I've not heard of not neutralizing the acid. I'm also puzzled, why you would want to contaminate the surfaces by sanding them to partially remove the conversion coating after creating it? These are Ideas I'd run from myself.
Lastly paint supplies are getting expensive, stupid like.
Jim McIntosh..
1953 C170B S/N 25656
02 K1200RS
1953 C170B S/N 25656
02 K1200RS
Re: Painting
My plane is being painted right now. We're using PPG DX533 but the process is basically the same. You will want to wash the alodine off and let it dry before priming. Letting the alodine dry on the metal can cause blistering of the paint down the road. You should prime as soon as practical after the alodine has been rinsed to avoid further oxidation. You can use heat and compressed (clean) air to help with the drying. Work in sections.
http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/fil ... lletin.pdf
http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/fil ... lletin.pdf
1952 170B
N8180A s/n 25032
N8180A s/n 25032
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:12 pm
Re: Painting
I am by no means a professional painter, but having just finished painting mine the process is still pretty fresh to me.
Strip to bare metal. I was told it was ok to leave existing primer on. That was a mistake.
Wash with aluma prep. Keep it wet for several minutes then rinse it off.
Now put on the alodine, again keep it wet for several minutes, then rinse.
Tape off.
Wipe down with a prep all type of solution.
You can put top paint straight onto the prepared aluminum but I put down a white 2k epoxy primer and 45 minutes later the white polyurethane top coat. Kind of hard to spray white over white. But it will keep it bright even after fading.
It you want to ask anything specific send me a private msg with your number and I'll give ya a call.
Just please keep in mind these chemicals are nasty. Proper protective gear is a must.
Strip to bare metal. I was told it was ok to leave existing primer on. That was a mistake.
Wash with aluma prep. Keep it wet for several minutes then rinse it off.
Now put on the alodine, again keep it wet for several minutes, then rinse.
Tape off.
Wipe down with a prep all type of solution.
You can put top paint straight onto the prepared aluminum but I put down a white 2k epoxy primer and 45 minutes later the white polyurethane top coat. Kind of hard to spray white over white. But it will keep it bright even after fading.
It you want to ask anything specific send me a private msg with your number and I'll give ya a call.
Just please keep in mind these chemicals are nasty. Proper protective gear is a must.
1953 170B “Deuce” 25582
1951 170A “Blue Lightening” Sold 20021
1951 170A “Blue Lightening” Sold 20021
Re: Painting
Rick
Rick Champagne
C-170A N5475C
C-170A N5475C
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:49 am
Re: Painting
Apparently I was a bit misunderstood and have since been straightened out regarding the Alodine stage. You do in fact wash it off like you should. However here is where it still gets wierd. The painter I am working with paints jets, Cessnas, fancy homebuilts etc. he goes from the Alodine stage to an etch primer and then scotch brites to scuff it and lays the single stage top coat over that. Everything I read and advice I have received is different than this. You just epoxy prime and then your top coat if you do the whole alodine process. If you'd wanted to skip the prep and do it the "lazier" way then you just shoot etch primer and then another primer/sealer and then your top coat/final coat.
My head is spinning on what to do as I have a professional painters help but it contradicts what the data sheets say and advice of people who have also painted before.
My head is spinning on what to do as I have a professional painters help but it contradicts what the data sheets say and advice of people who have also painted before.
1955 Cessna 170B
Re: Painting
Not criticizing anyone at all....
...but I've had "professionals" screw up some pretty simple jobs.
...but I've had "professionals" screw up some pretty simple jobs.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
Re: Painting
Kyle,
There is more than one "right" way to paint an airplane. I would not overthink it. The main thing is to have a clean scuffed/etched aluminum base. These days there are many paint systems available and they all have different methods. Many people even skip the alodine process altogether. With the newer epoxy primers out there one could simply clean and etch the aluminum and then shoot the primer on the clean/etched metal. You could even go waterborne with Stewerts. I don't believe they use alodine with their system.
There is more than one "right" way to paint an airplane. I would not overthink it. The main thing is to have a clean scuffed/etched aluminum base. These days there are many paint systems available and they all have different methods. Many people even skip the alodine process altogether. With the newer epoxy primers out there one could simply clean and etch the aluminum and then shoot the primer on the clean/etched metal. You could even go waterborne with Stewerts. I don't believe they use alodine with their system.
1952 170B
N8180A s/n 25032
N8180A s/n 25032
Re: Painting
Some of the experimental guys are now shooting silver instead of white to cut down on the amount of paint needed, which costs and weighs less.